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From Camogli to Portofino


Una versione italiana è disponibile qui: Da Camogli a Portofino

At the time of the Maritime Republics - and even earlier - the Portofino Harbor had already been identified by the genoeses as a shelter for their commercial ships in distress. At later times, the morphology of the territory had definitively characterized this place the way it was perceived until a few decades ago: a simple village with boats going back and forth and fishing net out in the sun.

Nowadays, Portofino is something different: the jet-set yachts mooring at Molo Umberto I, look a bit disproportionate compared to the delicate and naive nature of this place while the one-day-tourists are patiently queuing from Santa Margherita to get ingested by the public car park in Piazza della Libertà.

In addition to those cited above, you can get in Portofino in many different ways but strolling there throught the trails in the promontory, definitively worth the fatigue. You will be paid back by breathing inside the landscape, step by step. Moreover, unlike many other magical places on the earth, the row of pastel-colored houses that makes Portofino famous, still seems to resist the consumption of the modern times. Here and there, you could occasionally hear some american travellers - usually devoted to the charming atmosphere of the italians's northern lakes - whispering a "My God, it's unbelievable."

This place retains also a good memory of the Dolce Vita protagonists: it is likely that Portofino offered to the many who have been there some unforgettable moments. Francesco Leoni - an italian photographer - has produced many award-winning shots: Kim Novak, Prince Ranieri, and his family, Orson Welles, and his dog.

Should you want (or need) to devour all at once, the must that can''t be refused are half a dozen: start at the famous piazzetta, take a walk along the Calata Marconi and climb up to the Church of St. George and then go straight to Castello Brown. You have to get to the lighthouse too. There is something somewhat magnificent in the beauty of the corners and balconies without a name. You can capture those scenes in your camera, to be lost and found next time you will be back. For those who have the luck.

It is used to say that to spend a vacation in Portofino can be very expensive. Not necessarily true... You can get here cheap and easy, if you want, and be part of it better than a five stars guest. You can literally touch the feelings described and sketched here by trekking from Camogli to San Fruttuoso and then again San Fruttuoso to Portofino. They are all connected by a mesh of paths and variations to accommodate the daring ones and the contemplative too.

Located on the other side of the promontory over Portofino, Camogli is a place of ancient seafaring traditions, a grid of narrow streets that date back from the sea, huge and colorful houses that form together the so-called palazzata. Camogli is also famous for its traditional festivals such as the sagra del pese, held every second sunday of may. The "City of a thousand white sailboats," has an ancient port that has preserved intact over the centuries its atmosphere.

Around Camogli - a little over the top, on the western side of the promontory of Portofino - is the village of San Rocco. From its belvedere you can get a stunning view of the sea and the town of Camogli. San Rocco is a good starting point for hiking on the mountain or taking the boat at Punta Chiappa to reach the austere San Fruttuoso Abbey, once home of Benedictine monks built between X' XI century in the Capodimonte cove.

Santa Margherita Ligure has Roman origin, then transformed from fishing village to tourist resort of international fame for a wealthy client: royal families, leading politicians and industrialists, celebrities from the entertainment world. Tourist destination among the most classical to the beauty of the landscape enhanced the elegance of its houses, its villas and heritage hotels. Santa Margherita evidences of great artistic value in its Romanesque and Baroque churches, the Villa Durazzo, embellished by a splendid park overlooking the sea and the Cervara Abbey, enchanting and rich in its history, situated on the stretch of coast that goes from Santa Margherita to Portofino.



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[...]

At the time of the Maritime Republics - and even earlier - the Portofino Harbor had already been identified by the genoeses as a shelter for their commercial ships in distress. At later times, the morphology of the territory had definitively characterized this place the way it was perceived until a few decades ago: a simple village with boats going back and forth and fishing net out in the sun.

Nowadays, Portofino is something different: the jet-set yachts mooring at Molo Umberto I, look a bit disproportionate compared to the delicate and naive nature of this place while the one-day-tourists are patiently queuing from Santa Margherita to get ingested by the public car park in Piazza della Libertà.

In addition to those cited above, you can get in Portofino in many different ways but strolling there throught the trails in the promontory, definitively worth the fatigue. You will be paid back by breathing inside the landscape, step by step. Moreover, unlike many other magical places on the earth, the row of pastel-colored houses that makes Portofino famous, still seems to resist the consumption of the modern times. Here and there, you could occasionally hear some american travellers - usually devoted to the charming atmosphere of the italians's northern lakes - whispering a "My God, it's unbelievable."

This place retains also a good memory of the Dolce Vita protagonists: it is likely that Portofino offered to the many who have been there some unforgettable moments. Francesco Leoni - an italian photographer - has produced many award-winning shots: Kim Novak, Prince Ranieri, and his family, Orson Welles, and his dog.

Should you want (or need) to devour all at once, the must that can''t be refused are half a dozen: start at the famous piazzetta, take a walk along the Calata Marconi and climb up to the Church of St. George and then go straight to Castello Brown. You have to get to the lighthouse too. There is something somewhat magnificent in the beauty of the corners and balconies without a name. You can capture those scenes in your camera, to be lost and found next time you will be back. For those who have the luck.

It is used to say that to spend a vacation in Portofino can be very expensive. Not necessarily true... You can get here cheap and easy, if you want, and be part of it better than a five stars guest. You can literally touch the feelings described and sketched here by trekking from Camogli to San Fruttuoso and then again San Fruttuoso to Portofino. They are all connected by a mesh of paths and variations to accommodate the daring ones and the contemplative too.

Located on the other side of the promontory over Portofino, Camogli is a place of ancient seafaring traditions, a grid of narrow streets that date back from the sea, huge and colorful houses that form together the so-called palazzata. Camogli is also famous for its traditional festivals such as the sagra del pese, held every second sunday of may. The "City of a thousand white sailboats," has an ancient port that has preserved intact over the centuries its atmosphere.

Around Camogli - a little over the top, on the western side of the promontory of Portofino - is the village of San Rocco. From its belvedere you can get a stunning view of the sea and the town of Camogli. San Rocco is a good starting point for hiking on the mountain or taking the boat at Punta Chiappa to reach the austere San Fruttuoso Abbey, once home of Benedictine monks built between X' XI century in the Capodimonte cove.

Santa Margherita Ligure has Roman origin, then transformed from fishing village to tourist resort of international fame for a wealthy client: royal families, leading politicians and industrialists, celebrities from the entertainment world. Tourist destination among the most classical to the beauty of the landscape enhanced the elegance of its houses, its villas and heritage hotels. Santa Margherita evidences of great artistic value in its Romanesque and Baroque churches, the Villa Durazzo, embellished by a splendid park overlooking the sea and the Cervara Abbey, enchanting and rich in its history, situated on the stretch of coast that goes from Santa Margherita to Portofino.


point of interest

Portofino
La tariffa più vantaggiosa per volare è solitamente quella ottenuta con il criterio delle date flessibili. Una volta scelto lo scalo di partenza, la destinazione e i giorni che si ritengono essere quelli ideali per l'andata e il ritorno è molto probabile che si riescano ad individuare tariffe molto inferiori a quella iniziale semplicemente adeguando un poco le proprie necessità. Spesso basta solo partire o tornare uno o due giorni prima o dopo. Provare per credere.


Camogli
An aerial view of the port of Camogli. Starting from here, by walking for 12.7 miles, you will reach the Piazzetta of Portofino via San Fruttuoso. Not the shortest way, not the easier way, but it is definitively one of the most scenic routes amongst the italian landscapes. From the port of Camogli the boats depart for San Fruttuoso, making a half-way stop in Punta Chiappa.

Camogli
The fish festival (sagra del pesce) is held in Camogli, every year, the second sunday of may. The kermesse occurs in the square of the port where two huge cauldrons are placed to fry the fish for the feast of San Fortunato. The two great padellone remain throughout the year turned to the wall in Via Garibaldi, close to the carrugi (pedestrian and narrow streets), waiting patiently for the arrival of their great moment.

Camogli
The Giuseppe Garibaldi promenade. In the background, the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta that once stood as an island connected to the dry land by a wooden bridge.  [photo: Andrea Puggioni]

Ruta di Camogli
At Ruta, just before the short tunnel which begins the descent towards Santa Margherita (5 kilometers), is a junction where you can take alternatively the private road that goes up to the luxury Hotel Portofino Vetta or the road to San Rocco, one of the most convenient starting point for the trips arount the Portofino National Park (you can leave your car)

San Rocco (Camogli)
The trail from San Rocco (219 meters above sl) to Punta Chiappa is easy and well-plotted. It starts from the viewpoint of San Rocco (belvedere) and it takes about 40 minutes with no particular difficulties.

Il belvedere di San Rocco
From the esplanade in front of the church start different paths. If there are threads in the narrow road between the houses, their source of the small square, you go down to Camogli in less than an hour (2 kilometers). It 'a fairly easy path, but often closed by drystone walls and vegetation. Well as the path to Camogli, San Rocco leave even, in the opposite direction, two-way to San Fruttuoso. The first track, very challenging and spectacular, takes two hours and thirty [...]

Mortola
La Mortola contrada of reach with a short ten-minute walk from the San Rocco belvedere.

Mortola
Mortola, very close to San Rocco (just 10 minutes from the belvedere) introduces the most demanding of the various paths that lead to the batteries (45 minutes), the Semaforo Nuovo (1 hour and 15 minutes) and San Fruttuoso. The trail to San Fruttuoso requires more than a discrete physical training for a fairly challenging route which averages 2 hours and a half.

Punta Chiappa (Camogli)
 [photo: Andrea Puggioni]

Punta Chiappa (Camogli)
A see-through the trees above the blue of Punta Chiappa, near Porto Pidocchio.

Batterie
Along the path that goes from Camogli San Fruttuoso, past the small village of Mortola, in Fornelli, are - suspended halfway up - some dating back bunker at the second World War with the circular pitches from which the guns fired. We are 250 meters high, two miles from San Rocco and 4 miles from Camogli.

San Fruttuoso Abbey
Suspended between history and legend, the story tells that the first ones to settle down here were five spanish monks from Tarragona, who landed in this secluded cove (location Capodimonte) to bring the relics of Bishop Fruttuoso.

San Fruttuoso cove
The Abbey and the blue waters of the cove of San Fruttuoso di Camogli [...]  [photo: Arianna Pozzuolo]

San Fruttuoso Abbey
Compared to the original building, the second floor of the cloister was added at later time, in the sixteenth century when the arched sea-front porch was also added to the church. The beach was formed in 1915 following a landslide.

The statue of Cristo degli Abissi
The bronze statue - 2.5 meters high and located since 1954 on the bottom of the bay of San Fruttuoso, a 17 meters deep - was an idea that he thought Duilio Marcante to commemorate the death of his friend Dario Gonzatti occurred during a dive.

Doria Tower (Johannes Andreas Auria)
The three-levels tower was built in the second half of the sixteenth century by the heirs of 'Admiral Andrea Doria to protect the place against the pirates. The Doria tower is now owned by the Fund for the 'Italian Environment (FAI) and is open to the public (for info opening hours please call +39 0185 772703)

San Fruttuoso - Portofino trail
For the trail that goes from San Fruttuoso to Portofino you can plan an hour and 45 minutes. You can tell the path since it is marked by two red dots. It is a very scenic route always ovelookiing the sea. [...]  [photo: Andrea Puggioni]

San Fruttuoso - Portofino trail
A view from the path forwarding San Fruttuoso cove.

Hotel Splendido Portofino
In the heart of one of the most fascinating areas of Mediterranean, overlooking the sea, the Hotel Splendido perfectly combines the beauty of Portofino to the comfort of a unique luxury hotel.

Hotel Splendido Portofino
In the gardens of the hotel, which descend from the hill towards the sea, rare flowers, surrounded by olive trees, while beautiful Bugainvilleae shade the paths to secluded benches that offer romantic and unforgettable views.

Hotel Splendido Portofino
The swimming pool with heated sea water, is immersed in the lush garden, a corner of paradise for hours of pure relaxation with breath-taking views of the Gulf of Tigullio and Portofino Bay.

Hotel San Giorgio
The Hotel San Giorgio is a typical Ligurian house with five floors, harmoniously integrated with the others that are around. The view is not one can say sublime but the piazzetta is within walking distance.

Portofino, the Calata Marconi
From the church-yard of San Giorgio, a remarkable view of Portofino and its yachts berthed at the marina. On the opposite side is the Calata Marconi.

Portofino
The pastel-coloured houses facing the piazzetta.

Portofino from Brown Castle
A wide view of Portofino cove as seen from the battlements of Castello Brown (Brown Castle).

The church of San Giorgio
The top of the bell tower of San Giorgio, glimpsed during a walk from Umberto I dock.

Castello Brown (Portofino)
Surrounded by a mediterranean garden, Castello Brown owes its name to the British consul Sir Montague Yeats Brown, which bought it in 1870 when the fortress was turned from a militarized bulwark to a residential mansion. The Municipality of Portofino is the owner of the castle since 1961, today it houses the offices of the Marine Park.

Castello Brown (Portofino)
Castle Brown, above, still illuminated by the sun, seen from the pier Umberto I (Portofino). The first documentation of today's structure - once called the Castello di San Giorgio - date back to 1425, when the Republic of Genoa turn it to become military standpoint, due to its convenient position over the bay.  [photo: Andrea Puggioni]

Portofino bay
Portofino bay, as seen from Castello Brown.

The lighthouse of Portofino
 [photo: Claudio Camanini]

San Girolamo Abbey (Cervara)
Founded in 1361 as a Benedictine monastery, the Abbey of Cervara - located between Santa Margherita and Portofino - in 1912 it was declared a National Monument.  [photo: Claudio Camanini]

Cervara Abbey
Returned to its original splendor, the Abbey of Saint Jerome (also known as the Cervara) is now the scene of events, cultural events and mundane: it is here that he chose to marry - June 14, 2008 - the striker Wayne Rooney of the Manchester United football team.  [photo: Claudio Camanini]

Santa Margherita, Villa Durazzo
Built in 1678, Villa Durazzo has been subjected to many transformations. In 1821 the Durazzo family sold the property to the Principles Centurioni and during the nineteenth century the garden was refined by fountains, statues and marble furnitures. At the earliest of '900 the mansion was turned into a luxury hotel and later became property of Alfredo Chierichetti, who added exotic plants and flower pots. In 1973 the heirs of magnate have sold the property to the Municipality [...]

Rapallo, the Castle
 [photo: Claudio Camanini]

Antenne Rai
From a gate next to the tall masts of the italian national broadcasting television (Rai) - appropriately drawn from 'Hotel Portofino Kulm Summit for encouraging the excursions of their guests - are leaving the trails of the park of Portofino that branch off in all directions: Camogli (via San Rocco), San Fruttuoso , Portofino, Paraggi and Santa Margherita Ligure.

Rex Harrison and Rita Hayworth in Portofino
Rita Hayworth and Rex Harrison in their villa at Portofino. This is one of the shots by the italian photographer Francesco Leoni shown at the Castello Brown and featured for the exhibition Portrait of a Star, the Dolce Vita Portofino during summer 2008.  [photo: Francesco Leoni]

Joan Collins in Portofino
Summer of '62; Joan Collins on the beach in Santa Margherita Ligure. This is one of the shots by the italian photographer Francesco Leoni shown at the Castello Brown and featured for the exhibition Portrait of a Star, the Dolce Vita Portofino during summer 2008. [...]  [photo: Francesco Leoni]

Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall in Portofino
In this picture (1954) Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall take a walk in Portofino. This is one of the shots by the italian photographer Francesco Leoni shown at the Castello Brown and featured for the exhibition Portrait of a Star, the Dolce Vita Portofino during summer 2008.  [photo: Francesco Leoni]

Prince Ranieri in Portofino
Prince Ranieri of Monaco, 10 May 1963, with his wife Grace and their children Albert and Carolina on board their yacht in Portofino. This is one of the shots by the italian photographer Francesco Leoni shown at the Castello Brown and featured for the exhibition Portrait of a Star, the Dolce Vita Portofino during summer 2008.  [photo: Francesco Leoni]

Orson Welles in Portofino
Orson Welles, 17 December 1957, with the beloved dog. This is one of the shots by the italian photographer Francesco Leoni shown at the Castello Brown and featured for the exhibition Portrait of a Star, the Dolce Vita Portofino during summer 2008. [...]  [photo: Francesco Leoni]

Kim Novak in Portofino
Kim Novak, 9 June 1959, in a restaurant in Portofino. This is one of the shots by the italian photographer Francesco Leoni shown at the Castello Brown and featured for the exhibition Portrait of a Star, the Dolce Vita Portofino during summer 2008. [...]  [photo: Francesco Leoni]